Day 129 – 133: Bulgarian holiday

4 Oct

It’s an odd feeling to sit still for so long. We ordered our new bearings on Monday, and it’s really just a matter of sitting and waiting for them to arrive. We can’t really go anywhere as the bike isn’t functioning, and it’s been raining and hella cold for the last few days – in the single digits all day and even colder at night.

The traveller season is for all intents and purposes over for Ivo and Polly. Besides us there’s just Michael and Tamara here … they are still waiting for their hydraulic clutch parts to arrive from Germany. The six of us have been hibernating in Polly’s house, drinking coffee by the fire, watching movies and chatting into the evening. It’s almost like being on a winter holiday somewhere for a week or so. It’s nice and all, and Polly and Ivo have been so incredibly hospitable but it’s frustrating that we can’t be on the road. There’s not much we can do about it, so we just have to accept it, sit back and enjoy being part of Bulgarian village life for a week.

We’ve met all the expats who’ve moved here from the UK. They’ve all been super helpful – offering to give us rides or pick things up for us from town and lending us tools. We cooked dinner for everyone the other night, and last night I whipped up a fruit crumble from the pears and quinces growing in Michael and Tamara’s yard. It was such a hit that Polly and I made a big batch to take to friends in the village. I hadn’t realised how much I’d missed cooking until I started preparing dinner for nine. It was really satisfying.

It’s a rare treat for me to devour a book in a few days, and I’ve been tucked up on the couch or in a sleeping bag in the tent, powering my way through a tale of motorcycle adventure. Lois Pryce is kindofabigdeal amongst motorcycle travellers. She and her husband Austin have some incredible stories to tell of their rides all around the world. With her unruly red hair and somewhat bolshy attitude, I get the feeling I’d like her. She’s a Pippi Longstocking for the modern age. I’ve been reading about her solo trip through Africa, through the Sahara, the Congo and Angola. I don’t think I’m cut out for that kind of trip, but there’s a lot of stuff in her book that I absolutely relate to – the dichotomy between wanting to see ‘untouched’ lands, but recognising that people who live there would benefit from development, the unpredictable nature of embassy officials and border control processes (or lack thereof), the mental fatigue from trying to take in ever-changing surroundings, the point at which you realise you no longer care how you look, the fear of running out of food/water/petrol in the middle of nowhere, the feeling of really being in your surroundings that you can only get when you’re on a motorcycle and the consistent kindness of strangers when you most need it.

Michael & Tamara’s side-car custom KTM with some BMWs from Malaysia

Michael and Tamara showed us their new house here in Idelivo

Barn 1 of 3 – to be converted into a billiards room eventually

Comes with extra accessories too

One day this will be the living room – a bit of work to do…

Hanging their first picture

The view

Gathering fruit

Grape harvest


One Response to “Day 129 – 133: Bulgarian holiday”

  1. Rob October 4, 2013 at 7:50 pm #

    wow love the house, I can see what it will be like! tell Michael and Tamara that it is a bit of me , and my hands are itching to get stuck in to realize the vision! Hope the bearing arrives soon , enjoy your holiday!

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